Rio “Magical city”

06 February

We leave Buzios in the morning and decide to go to Cabo Frio where the anchorages have the reputation of being “Quiet”…  To our surprise the wind forces, The waves break on the rocks around us and quickly we reduce the sail, The genoa and start the engine…. We engage in the bay and hope to be able to anchor in front of a small beach where many boats with local colors take tourists from island to island .. But the wind goes from 5 to 30 nodes in a fraction of seconds , Unable to drop anchor… We leave and try a 2nd mooring… the water is very clear, The intensity of the sun on the white sand dazzles us.. The wind blows in gusts, it is absolutely not sheltered, Too dangerous to spend the night, we have no choice but to continue our way to Rio!!!  Damage…..

07 February

After sailing at night, we arrive in Rio Bay at sunrise… everything seems peaceful, We walk along long sandy beaches, Green hills as a backdrop….  Then finally we see in the distance the “Pao de Azucar”, “Christ the Redeemer of Corcovado”, The famous beach of “Copacabana”….  We are so attracted by the landscape that we forget the color of the water and the waste of all kinds that floats on both sides of the boat.…  What pollution!!!!! And yet many fishing boats are there hauling up their nets. , filled with good, well-fed fish, that we imagine ready for consumption….  Yum!!!  Yum!!!

The Yacht Club where we have to go is not far away, just at the foot of the “Pao de Azucar”….  What luck!!!

As soon as we arrive we explain to the reception, that we come from a Brazilian friend who is a member of the Club and that we want to stay a few days. The dialogue gets complicated when we add that we have to recover, to the Executive Secretary, a letter to us….  After an hour of explanations we are finally “Allowed” to stay…whew!!!

 This Yacht Club (like that of Salvador de Baya) provides boaters with a shuttle that can be called on a VHF channel with a password “Cocoroca”( It's a small fish we were told)…  practice….  No need to put the annex in this muddy and greenish water….  The only disadvantage is to be understood by radio, and l’ Franco accent- Brazilian does not always please them…  Patience is therefore required!!!

08 February

The next day we go to the center of Rio, carry out the entry procedures with the authorities…  .and as usual it will be necessary to arm yourself with patience and to put yourself in physical and psychological condition…  namely :  leave early, Stock up on vitamins for breakfast, be in a good mood, Equip yourself with good walking shoes, essential water bottles and especially l’ Essential a map of the city….

In most official offices the staff does not know the administrative procedures for foreigners (wonder what they do all day).  The first difficulty is to make them understand what we are here for.…  then they consult each other for a while., Disappear, and come back to us with a big smile either with the right print to fill (which is rare) or in our case with the exit document while we were making an entry!!!!  We have also been told that the offices have moved and that it is very, very far across town.!!! (It is still necessary that we are given the right addresses!!!) Philippe recently found himself in this situation. We had to ask for permission to extend the boat. After a day of wandering from office to office all over Rio, He was lucky at the end of the day to come across “charming Brazilian women” who accompanied him to the right place!!! One stamp and it was over…grrr…..Grr…. 

We are finally rid of “the administrative part” whew!!!

The first days we do some shopping (after 3 weeks of moorings the fridge was a little empty) and restore the boat…  We go to the neighborhood “Central” of Rio which is very lively and commercial with its great avenues. There are many green squares or gardens. The city is not oppressive despite the crowds and the scorching heat. It feels good.

On other days we travel to other neighborhoods( Botafogo, Lappa, Copacabana, Ipanema… etc….) and let's become real “Carioca”(the inhabitants of Rio) by taking the bus, The metro…

We are fortunate to sympathize with Bob and Chris, he French, she Brazilian… They make us discover a small restaurant in the district of “Urca”( to Sugar Loaf) where you eat by the sea (Polluted) fish petiscos (Appetizers), accompanied as it should be for men by a “Ceveza” (Beer) and for women del “Agua com gas”….Friendly evening!!

After discovering life “Hectic” de Rio, we spend the day in the Botanical Garden, magnificent…  Rare tropical vegetation, A variety of flowers with names impossible to remember. The photos will be more meaningful….

The same evening,  we meet Bob and Chris at ” Copacabana” …. We enjoy the local drink by the beach ” Caipirinha” …and dinners in a “Comida da Kilos” ( dishes by weight) … Another good evening!!!!

The next evening we discover the district of “Lapa” (trendy district of Rio) with its bars and restaurants open all night…  We have dinner with Bob and Chris in a restaurant with Brazilian music ( Samba, Salsa…) and where you can dance next to your table….  The swaying of Brazilian women is impressive!!! (Philippe: I would say even more it is mesmerizing!)

During the two months preceding the carnival the Samba schools repeat their parade on Saturday and Sunday in the “Sambadrome” of Rio. We decide to go there for a taste of the carnival. The “Sambadrome” is like a stadium all in length (an avenue) with bleachers on each side. The neighborhood is crowded!!!  Finally we find an entrance, These are the popular bleachers. We take a little height and find a corner of wall on which to put our buttocks among a human tide. What delirium! of the world everywhere undulating to the rhythm of Samba. And among all this street vendors sneak from step to walk with heavy coolers on their backs and offer refreshing drinks..

A facilitator, screaming into his microphone,  presents in an impressive hubbub the schools of Samba who parade in turn – Each school has more than 4000 Participants!!!  When we arrive it's the turn of the school “Mangueira” to scroll. We're lucky, She is the best and she won the 2010 Carnival competition. First a few hundred percussionists give the rhythm that vibrates the stadium and enters our guts. Around a hundred dancers…  It's impressive how fast they wiggle their buttocks and legs. – High-level athletes!  The thighs of the dancers have nothing to envy to those of rugby players!  It's mesmerizing…  One can only imagine what it will be like on Carnival Day with the costumes. We follow the rhythm of the music and we can't help but “tap” of the foot”…

At the Yatch Club,  we sympathized well with Nalzima, the secretary of the Commodore of the Yacht Club. We explain to him that we are considering returning to Rio for Carnival and ask if it is possible to return to the Club.… No problem she tells us, You are welcome!!!  We feel privileged because it is very difficult to enter this private and renowned Club in Rio!!!

On the last day we sympathize with the crew of “Zigoto” – Didier, Isabelle and Barrack their dog… real Bretons from Vannes. They go in the same direction as us and decide to sail together (This slice of life will be part of another chapter).

After 10 days in Rio we set sail on 16 February in the late afternoon. Head to Ilha Grande and the surrounding islands at a good night's sailing. Zigoto sails a few cables in front of us.